It was just the other day my wife set out rows of small containers with packed dirt and topped with cellophane on every south-facing windowsill in the house. This has been an annual tradition of hers for as long as we've been married and is one of my favorites as it reminds me spring is around the corner. The kitchen contains beans and tomatoes, office has squash, bedroom has carrots and lettuce, and the corner tub windows in the bathroom have more types of seeds than I can remember. In a few weeks, the sprouts will begin to pop up and will be transplanted to other containers and taken care of until the unofficial garden start date: Mother's Day.
I ran across an article I thought you may enjoy...starting plants from seeds now (and cultivating next year's seeds from the plants upon harvest time) is not only satisfying, but also beats the winter blues and gives promise to warmer days ahead...which is something we all are looking forward to!
Starting Seeds Indoors - by Gardenguides.com
What You'll Need
A Sunny Window:
Plants like a southern exposure. If you don't have a window that will do,
consider investing in some cool-white florescent bulbs.
Containers:
Try all kinds to see what works for you. Make sure they are clean and have
good drainage. If you are using a fiber or peat pot, soak it well before adding
soil. Dry fiber pots draw moisture away from the soil.
Seeds:
You'll get the best results if you purchase fresh seeds, packaged for the
upcoming growing season. If you have saved seeds that you purchased last year, test
the germination rate before planting.
Growing Medium:
Nothing beats a good commercial medium because it is sterile and free of
unwanted weed seeds. If you want to make your own, here are a couple of good
recipes:
|
Cornell Mix
4 quarts of shredded peat moss or sphagnum, 2 teaspoons ground limestone, 4
tablespoons 5-10-10 fertilizer.
|
Simple Mix
1 part loam, 1 part clean sand or perlite, 1 part leaf mold or moist peat.
|
Sowing Seeds
Fill pots or flats to within 1/4 inch of the top with your potting mixture and
level the surface. It's a good idea to water the soil and allow it to drain
thoroughly before sowing the seeds. Make a hole for each seed with your finger
or a pencil. Keep in mind that most seeds need to be planted four times as deep
as the seed is wide. If your seeds are very fine, cover them with a fine layer
of soil.
Moisture and Humidity
Germinating medium should be kept evenly moist but not soaking wet. Too much
moisture will cause the seeds to rot. Use a fine sprayer to water newly planted
seeds and tiny seedlings or, if possible, water from the bottom. If you can,
slip your pots and flats into plastic bags to keep the humidity and moisture
even and reduce the frequency of watering.
Light
Some seeds require light to germinate while others prefer total darkness. Your
seed packet should tell you what your seed's requirements are. Once germinated,
all seedlings need light to develop into strong, healthy plants. Supplement the
natural light with florescent bulbs if necessary.
Seedling Care
The care you give your seedlings in the weeks following germination is
critical. Keep it moist, but not dripping. Small pots and flats dry out
quickly, so check it often. If your seedlings are growing in a windowsill, turn
often to encourage straight stems.
The first two leaves you will see on the plant are not true leaves but food
storage cells called cotyledons. Once the first true leaves have developed,
it's time to start fertilizing. Choose a good liquid organic fertilizer and use
a weak solution once a week.
Hardening Off
One week before transplanting your seedlings outdoors, start to harden them
off. This process acclimates the soft and tender plants, which have been
protected from wind, cool temperatures, and strong sun, to their new environment.
Move the plants to a shady outdoor area at first, and bring them indoors for the
night if night temperatures are cold. Each day, move them out into the sun for
a few hours, increasing the time spent in the sun each day. Keep them well
watered during this period, and don't place them directly on the ground if
slugs are a problem. Monitor them closely for insect damage since tender young
seedlings are a delicacy for insects.
Transplanting
Don't be in a rush to set your plants in the garden. If they won't withstand
frost, be sure all danger of frost has passed before setting them out. Plan the
garden in advance. Consider companion planting and plant sizes. Make sure your
tall plants won't shade low growing neighbors.
Water the ground outside and the seedlings thoroughly before transplanting.
This helps prevent transplant shock. It's preferable to transplant on a cloudy
day so strong sun won't wilt your seedlings. Dig a hole about twice the size of
the root ball and set the transplant into the hole so the root ball will be
covered by 1/4 inch of soil. Press the soil firmly around the roots. A small
depression around the plant stem will help trap moisture. Water immediately
after transplanting and every day for the first week. Be sure to water deeply
so you plants won't develop shallow roots.